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When curating a list of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. But, situated high among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble shop achieving such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.